Sewing Day

Making a Juniper Quilted Jacket. I sewed lines of stitching in three directions for this one. Vertical, horizontal, diagonal. Lots of stitching, but lovely results.

Xx Sarah

If you want to make your own quilted jacket, you can grab the pattern here!

Here’s another quilted jacket I made with some photos of the whole process.

If you’d like some tips on how to get started with quilting fabric, this post is for you.

Tips for Sewing a Quilted Jacket

It can be intimidating to start a quilted jacket project. It feels like a big undertaking, and it’s hard to know where to start.

Albeit scary, the quest for a quilted jacket is worthwhile. Here are some thoughts and guidance to help it feel more possible and accessible than ever.

1) Stitching design

If spending a lot of time stitching is intimidating, good news!

I ran the numbers. In this example of jacket sleeves, increasing the spacing just 1/2” (1.3 cm) from 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) to 2” (5 cm) between lines decreased the total length of stitching by 25%.

That means if it would normally take you three hours to quilt all the pattern pieces, if you increased the spacing 1/2” (1.3 cm), you could save 45 minutes of sewing time.

2) Marking stitch lines

The best way to get consistently straight stitching is to mark each line with chalk. You don’t even need to use fancy fabric chalk. A stick of classroom white chalk works perfectly and is easy on the budget.

Without marking the lines you may end up with some stitching like this. But if you do get wavy lines, fear not. They are hard to detect once the jacket is washed. Plus, they are kind of extra cozy anyway.

3) Sewing

If you only remember one thing from these tips, remember this one. Starting from the center and sewing towards the sides allows the fabric to stretch toward the outsides as you sew. If you start on the outsides and go towards the center, you will likely end up with lots of excess fabric and wrinkles in the middle.

Sew all the lines of one direction before you start the other direction. Do all of the vertical lines before the diagonal or horizontal, etc. This is for the same reason — to let the fabric stretch toward the sides so no wrinkles build up.

4) Trimming around the edges

Stitching several hundred inches across multiple layers of fabric is inevitably going to result in some fabric edges and corners not lining up. Don’t worry. That’s what scissors are for! When you’re done sewing, trim around all the edges that need truing up. Easy peasy.

5) Waiting to wash

For quilted jackets, I’d like to make a case for throwing out the rule of thumb of washing fabric before you sew.

One of the joys of quilted jackets is their wrinkled lines. Sew the whole jacket and then throw it in the wash. It will shrink up and be so extra cozy.

If you’re using fabric and batting that shrinks significantly (may want to do a test patch), start with sewing one size larger.

If you’d like to play with a new quilting project, you can grab my Juniper Quilted Jacket pattern here!

5 Ways to Sew an Elastic Waistband

Here is how to sew an elastic waistband. Five ways! Most of these methods start with the elastic already sewn into a loop.

Let’s jump in!

Method One

This method leaves the waistband exposed and will touch your skin, so be sure to use a soft waistband elastic.

Step 1: On the right side of the fabric, align the top edge of the elastic and the top edge of the fabric. Sew the elastic all the way around with 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Stretch the elastic so it is evenly distributed all the way around.

Step 2: Trim the seam allowance of the fabric to 1/4” (0.5 cm).

Step 3: Fold the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric.

Step 4: Sew 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the top edge all the way around. Pull elastic tight while sewing.

Step 5: Sew 1/4” (0.6 cm) from the bottom edge of the elastic all the way around. Pull elastic tight while sewing.

This method is commonly used in sports clothing and has a sporty look. It’s fun to sew! Works best with lightweight fabrics. The top of the elastic is sewn to two more layers of fabric than the bottom which can cause the top to be more stretched out than the bottom.

Method Two

Step 1: On the wrong side of the fabric, align the top edge of the elastic and the top edge of the fabric. Sew the elastic all the way around with 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Stretch the elastic so it is evenly distributed all the way around.

Step 2: Fold the elastic two times toward the wrong side of the fabric.

Step 3: Sew 1/4” (0.6 cm) from the bottom edge of the elastic all the way around. Stretch the elastic so it is evenly distributed as you sew.

This method works best with medium to lightweight fabrics. The equal amount of fabric at the top and the bottom of the elastic reduces elastic distortion. The elastic is sewn through, so it doesn’t twist while wearing. The elastic is fully encased, which feels extra luxurious.

Method Three

Step 1: On the wrong side of the fabric, align the top edge of the elastic and the top edge of the fabric. Serge (or zig zag stitch) all the way around. Stretch the elastic so it is evenly distributed as you sew.

Step 2: Fold the elastic once toward the wrong side. Sew 1/4” (0.6 cm) from the bottom edge of the elastic. Pull the elastic tight while sewing.

This method is among the easiest methods with the fewest steps. Quick and easy to sew with consistently good results. It does leave the serged edge with the bottom of the elastic exposed, so a little less luxurious. Good method to use with heavyweight fabrics like sweatshirt fabric. Also commonly used in sports clothing.

Method Four

Step 1: Serge the top edge of the fabric.

Step 2: Fold the fabric toward the wrong side 1/4” (0.6 cm) and press. Fold the fabric again 1/4” (0.6 cm) longer than the width of the elastic and press.

In this example, the elastic is 1 1/2” wide. So the fabric is folded over the second time 1 3/4” and pressed.

Step 3: Sew 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the bottom edge. Instead of sewing all the way around, leave a 4” (10 cm) opening to insert the elastic.

Step 4: Attach two safety pins to the elastic and push it through.

Step 5: Overlap the two ends of elastic and sew them together.

Step 6: With the elastic in place, sew the 4” (10 cm) opening shut. Be sure to not catch the elastic in the stitching!

This method is a common favorite among sewists. Easy to sew because it doesn’t require sewing through the elastic. But that means the fabric can twist if additional lines of stitching aren’t added. Can also be tricky to press the fabric really evenly all the way around. The line of stitching is below the elastic, which causes the gathers to lay differently than when the elastic is sewn through.

Method Five

Step 1: Fold the fabric in half around the elastic and sew right along the elastic edge. Be sure to not catch the elastic in the stitching!

Tip: Extra long seam allowances are helpful with this method. In this example, the elastic is 1 1/2” wide. The strip of fabric is 5” wide to allow 1” of extra fabric on each side of the elastic.

Step 2: Match up the edges and sew the elastic to the right side of the waistline. Again sew right along the bottom edge of the elastic, but be sure to not catch the elastic in the stitching. Pull elastic tight as you sew.

Step 3: Trim seam allowance and serge edges together.

This method gives a clean looking definition between the waistband and the rest of the skirt/pants. It can be tricky to sew closely to the elastic without catching it in the stitching. It leaves the elastic unattached and free within the tunnel of fabric and can twist unless it is sewn down with more lines of stitching.

Variation to Method Five:

Sew the two pieces of fabric together without the elastic. Leave a 4” (1 cm) opening. Insert the elastic using safety pins and then sew the elastic together into a loop. Sew the 4” (10 cm) opening shut. Trim and serge seam allowance.

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Additional lines of stitching can be added to each of these methods. Each method is fun to sew in its own way! Which is your favorite?

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If you’d like to try one of these methods in action, you can make the Sweet Pea Sweat Set!

This pattern uses easy method three to sew the waistband on the sweatpants with great results.

If you enjoyed this tutorial, you may enjoy this exploration of gathering fabric and making ruffles.

You may also enjoy using the Tote Bag Calculator and using the step by step illustrated instructions.

How to Batch Sew the Olive Undies

Oh the warm feeling of having a drawer full of underwear that make you happy. The Olive Undies sewing pattern is out now!

Check out the Olive Undies Sew Along for detailed instructions and photos of each step.

Here’s how to batch sew the Olive Undies

I recommend batch sewing in one color at a time so you don’t have to switch thread throughout the process. I went with this beautiful dusty blue. Apparently I’m into this color right meow because I just painted my laundry room and bathroom this color and have matching bedsheets and duvet cover on my bed. Blue yeah!

Step 1: Cut out all the pieces. In this tutorial I’m making two Full Bums and two Thongs.

Step 2: Sew the crotch gussets and sides of each pair.

Step 3: Cut the elastic for the legs and waistband of each pair. Be sure to keep track of which lengths goes with which pairs!

Step 4: Sew each elastic into a loop.

Step 5: Serge all the elastic onto the waist and legs.

Step 6: Fold the elastic under and sew.

Woohoo! Olive Undies!

You can grab your copy of the Olive Undies here!

Underwear Sewing Pattern Fit Adjustments - The Olive Undies

Bodies are like sculptures — works of art to be celebrated. Sewing allows you to celebrate the uniqueness of your body in a powerful way by providing the opportunity to tweak the shape of your clothing. One fun way to honor your body is to adorn it with clothing that is made especially for your contours.

Here’s how to make adjustments to the Olive Undies.

Let’s jump in and play!

If you need to increase or decrease the amount of room in the bum zone, you can adjust the leg opening of the Back pattern piece. Move it in if you need less room, move it out if you need more room.

If you aren’t sure how much you need to add or decrease, try 3/8 - 1/2” (1 cm - 1.3 cm) to get started.

If you need the biggest part of the bum to be a little higher or lower than the original pattern, you can shift the curve up or down along the Back piece of the pattern.

If you would like to make the rise of the leg higher, you can increase the height of the leg opening by equal amounts on both the Front and Back pattern pieces.

If you would like to lower the rise of the leg, you can decrease the height of the leg opening by equal amounts on both the Front and Back pattern pieces.

If the width of the bum is too wide near the crotch, you can decrease the width of the bottom of the Back piece and the top of the Crotch piece in equal amounts.

If the width of the bum is too narrow by the crotch, you can increase the width of the bottom of the Back piece and the top of the Crotch piece in equal amounts.

If you haven’t grabbed the pattern yet, you can get the Olive Undies here!