5 Ways to Sew an Elastic Waistband

Here is how to sew an elastic waistband. Five ways! Most of these methods start with the elastic already sewn into a loop.

Let’s jump in!

Method One

This method leaves the waistband exposed and will touch your skin, so be sure to use a soft waistband elastic.

Step 1: On the right side of the fabric, align the top edge of the elastic and the top edge of the fabric. Sew the elastic all the way around with 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Stretch the elastic so it is evenly distributed all the way around.

Step 2: Trim the seam allowance of the fabric to 1/4” (0.5 cm).

Step 3: Fold the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric.

Step 4: Sew 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the top edge all the way around. Pull elastic tight while sewing.

Step 5: Sew 1/4” (0.6 cm) from the bottom edge of the elastic all the way around. Pull elastic tight while sewing.

This method is commonly used in sports clothing and has a sporty look. It’s fun to sew! Works best with lightweight fabrics. The top of the elastic is sewn to two more layers of fabric than the bottom which can cause the top to be more stretched out than the bottom.

Method Two

Step 1: On the wrong side of the fabric, align the top edge of the elastic and the top edge of the fabric. Sew the elastic all the way around with 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance. Stretch the elastic so it is evenly distributed all the way around.

Step 2: Fold the elastic two times toward the wrong side of the fabric.

Step 3: Sew 1/4” (0.6 cm) from the bottom edge of the elastic all the way around. Stretch the elastic so it is evenly distributed as you sew.

This method works best with medium to lightweight fabrics. The equal amount of fabric at the top and the bottom of the elastic reduces elastic distortion. The elastic is sewn through, so it doesn’t twist while wearing. The elastic is fully encased, which feels extra luxurious.

Method Three

Step 1: On the wrong side of the fabric, align the top edge of the elastic and the top edge of the fabric. Serge (or zig zag stitch) all the way around. Stretch the elastic so it is evenly distributed as you sew.

Step 2: Fold the elastic once toward the wrong side. Sew 1/4” (0.6 cm) from the bottom edge of the elastic. Pull the elastic tight while sewing.

This method is among the easiest methods with the fewest steps. Quick and easy to sew with consistently good results. It does leave the serged edge with the bottom of the elastic exposed, so a little less luxurious. Good method to use with heavyweight fabrics like sweatshirt fabric. Also commonly used in sports clothing.

Method Four

Step 1: Serge the top edge of the fabric.

Step 2: Fold the fabric toward the wrong side 1/4” (0.6 cm) and press. Fold the fabric again 1/4” (0.6 cm) longer than the width of the elastic and press.

In this example, the elastic is 1 1/2” wide. So the fabric is folded over the second time 1 3/4” and pressed.

Step 3: Sew 1/8” (0.3 cm) from the bottom edge. Instead of sewing all the way around, leave a 4” (10 cm) opening to insert the elastic.

Step 4: Attach two safety pins to the elastic and push it through.

Step 5: Overlap the two ends of elastic and sew them together.

Step 6: With the elastic in place, sew the 4” (10 cm) opening shut. Be sure to not catch the elastic in the stitching!

This method is a common favorite among sewists. Easy to sew because it doesn’t require sewing through the elastic. But that means the fabric can twist if additional lines of stitching aren’t added. Can also be tricky to press the fabric really evenly all the way around. The line of stitching is below the elastic, which causes the gathers to lay differently than when the elastic is sewn through.

Method Five

Step 1: Fold the fabric in half around the elastic and sew right along the elastic edge. Be sure to not catch the elastic in the stitching!

Tip: Extra long seam allowances are helpful with this method. In this example, the elastic is 1 1/2” wide. The strip of fabric is 5” wide to allow 1” of extra fabric on each side of the elastic.

Step 2: Match up the edges and sew the elastic to the right side of the waistline. Again sew right along the bottom edge of the elastic, but be sure to not catch the elastic in the stitching. Pull elastic tight as you sew.

Step 3: Trim seam allowance and serge edges together.

This method gives a clean looking definition between the waistband and the rest of the skirt/pants. It can be tricky to sew closely to the elastic without catching it in the stitching. It leaves the elastic unattached and free within the tunnel of fabric and can twist unless it is sewn down with more lines of stitching.

Variation to Method Five:

Sew the two pieces of fabric together without the elastic. Leave a 4” (1 cm) opening. Insert the elastic using safety pins and then sew the elastic together into a loop. Sew the 4” (10 cm) opening shut. Trim and serge seam allowance.

---

Additional lines of stitching can be added to each of these methods. Each method is fun to sew in its own way! Which is your favorite?

---

If you’d like to try one of these methods in action, you can make the Sweet Pea Sweat Set!

This pattern uses easy method three to sew the waistband on the sweatpants with great results.

If you enjoyed this tutorial, you may enjoy this exploration of gathering fabric and making ruffles.

You may also enjoy using the Tote Bag Calculator and using the step by step illustrated instructions.

How to Batch Sew the Olive Undies

Oh the warm feeling of having a drawer full of underwear that make you happy. The Olive Undies sewing pattern is out now!

Check out the Olive Undies Sew Along for detailed instructions and photos of each step.

Here’s how to batch sew the Olive Undies

I recommend batch sewing in one color at a time so you don’t have to switch thread throughout the process. I went with this beautiful dusty blue. Apparently I’m into this color right meow because I just painted my laundry room and bathroom this color and have matching bedsheets and duvet cover on my bed. Blue yeah!

Step 1: Cut out all the pieces. In this tutorial I’m making two Full Bums and two Thongs.

Step 2: Sew the crotch gussets and sides of each pair.

Step 3: Cut the elastic for the legs and waistband of each pair. Be sure to keep track of which lengths goes with which pairs!

Step 4: Sew each elastic into a loop.

Step 5: Serge all the elastic onto the waist and legs.

Step 6: Fold the elastic under and sew.

Woohoo! Olive Undies!

You can grab your copy of the Olive Undies here!

Underwear Sewing Pattern Fit Adjustments - The Olive Undies

Bodies are like sculptures — works of art to be celebrated. Sewing allows you to celebrate the uniqueness of your body in a powerful way by providing the opportunity to tweak the shape of your clothing. One fun way to honor your body is to adorn it with clothing that is made especially for your contours.

Here’s how to make adjustments to the Olive Undies.

Let’s jump in and play!

If you need to increase or decrease the amount of room in the bum zone, you can adjust the leg opening of the Back pattern piece. Move it in if you need less room, move it out if you need more room.

If you aren’t sure how much you need to add or decrease, try 3/8 - 1/2” (1 cm - 1.3 cm) to get started.

If you need the biggest part of the bum to be a little higher or lower than the original pattern, you can shift the curve up or down along the Back piece of the pattern.

If you would like to make the rise of the leg higher, you can increase the height of the leg opening by equal amounts on both the Front and Back pattern pieces.

If you would like to lower the rise of the leg, you can decrease the height of the leg opening by equal amounts on both the Front and Back pattern pieces.

If the width of the bum is too wide near the crotch, you can decrease the width of the bottom of the Back piece and the top of the Crotch piece in equal amounts.

If the width of the bum is too narrow by the crotch, you can increase the width of the bottom of the Back piece and the top of the Crotch piece in equal amounts.

If you haven’t grabbed the pattern yet, you can get the Olive Undies here!

Olive Undies Full Bum Sew Along

Oh the joy of undies!

The Olive Undies sewing pattern comes with a Thong version and a Full Bum version.

These Full Bum undies are designed to be one of the most well covering and most comfortable pairs of underwear you own.

Although this tutorial is for the Olive Undies specifically, the techniques can be applied to all your underwear and swimwear sewing adventures. Sew yeah!

This tutorial uses a serger, but fear not! A zigzag stitch substitutes seamlessly (haha punny).

Let’s jump in

Step 1: Cut out all the pieces with stretchy fabric that makes you smile.

Step 2: Place the Front and Back pieces right side up. Place them so their tops are facing each other.

Step 3: Roll the tops of both pieces down toward the crotch.

Step 4: Place one of the Crotch pieces right side up underneath. Match up the edges.

Step 5: Place the other Crotch piece right side down on top. Clip or pin in place.

At this point the Front and Back pieces are sandwiched in between the two Crotch pieces.

Step 6: Sew with 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance using your stretch stitch of preference.

Step 7: Trim seam allowance.

Step 8: Turn the underwear right side out through the crotch.

Step 9: Trim off any corners sticking out from the seams.

Step 10: Line up the side seams. Clip or pin in place.

Step 11: Sew side seams with 3/8” (1 cm) seam allowance using your preferred stitch.

If you have a serger, serge edges for a nice finish.

Step 12: Cut the leg and waistband elastic. Refer to the chart in the pattern to see what lengths to cut for your size.

Step 13: Overlap the ends 1/2” (1.3 cm) and zig zag stitch.

Step 14: Clip or pin the elastic in four even sections around the waistband. Fold the undies in half to find the halfway points.

Step 15: Line up the edge of the elastic with the edge of the fabric. Serge or zig zag stitch all the way around.

Tips for getting started with elastic

a) Make sure the foot and needle of your machine are up.

b) Spread the elastic tight between two fingers. Slide it under the foot. Put the foot and needle down to hold it in place.

c) Grab the elastic with one hand in front of the machine and the other hand in back. Stretch out the elastic to the next place it’s clipped or pinned to see how tight it is supposed to be.

d) Stretch out the elastic with your hands. Let the machine pull it through at its own speed. Don’t push or pull with your hands, just let the machine do the work while your hands keep the elastic tight for it to sew easily.

e) Sew one small section at a time. Sew. Tighten a section. Sew. Tighten a section.

Step : Repeat the steps to sew on the elastic evenly around the legs.

Step 16: Fold over the elastic once toward the wrong side. Stitch all the way around with zig zag stitch. Overlap the beginning and end of the stitching 1” (2.5 cm). No back stitching.

For the waistband, start stitching in the back or on one of the sides.

For the legs, start stitching on the crotch.

That’s it! Well done!

If you’d like to grab the Olive Undies sewing pattern, you can get it here!

Big Printer

I’m happy to introduce an addition to my sewing room — Big Printer.

Big Printer is a 36” plotter printer that can print out patterns on one continuous sheet of paper, just like a copy shop. This is handy for my own sewing and pattern drafting.

But even more exciting is the opportunity to start offering printed patterns to online customers and to indie sewing shops.

My local print shop is wonderful to work with and kindly printed pattern envelopes for me.

These shelves from Ikea were just what I was looking for. Simple, unstained wood, adjustable, affordable, easy to put together and move. Little Printer, rolls of paper, and a mix of shipping supplies and my personal sewing tools are organized on these shelves.

I wasn’t sure where I was going to put Big Printer. It’s bigger than I expected. But it fits perfectly on top of my antique dresser. I’m currently using it to house fabric. Generally I prefer open shelving for fabric so I can easily see what I have. But this is what fits best in my sewing room for now, so I’m thankful to have it on hand.

Big Printer and Blue Serger are enjoying each other’s company.

Printed patterns coming next week!